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Transient Books

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..
Transient Books
how we do it

A glimpse behind the scenes. Wander through this page to learn more about
how we handcraft all these treasures.

Click on links below if you know what you want to see,
or scroll down to see full page content.

Cover Inlays · Tight Back Bindings · Flat Back Bindings
Reinforced Perfect Bindings · Really Big Books · Clam Shell Boxes

Cutting out the well where the inlay will go.
The well, before the book is covered.
Pasting the cover so the cover paper can be applied.
Cutting out the well
where the inlay will go.
The well, before the book is covered.
Pasting the cover so the cover paper can be applied.
Applying the cover paper.
The cover paper in place, the well visible.
The inlaid photo is now in place.
Applying the cover paper.
The cover paper in place, the well visible.
The inlaid photo is now in place.

2. How we make TIGHT BACK BINDINGS
These hardback bindings have rounded spines and are made up of folded sections, or folios.
This binding style is used for especially thick and/or large books. (Books that usually have more than 100 sheets/200 pages.)
BLANK BOOKS: This binding style is priceless for thick, sturdy books. The pages have a lovely drape to them and lay flat for comfortable use.
PRINTED BOOKS: the HEIGHT of the book cannot be taller than 8.5 inches. It can be of any width, though.
In order to print, the content first needs to be formatted into booklets, or folded sections. If you are not familiar with desktop publishing we provide this formatting service.

The book block is made up of folded sections that have perpendicular grooves sawed across the spine where the recessed cords will lie. The book can then be sewn on the sewing frame. Binding thread runs up and down the inside of each section, coming out of the stations to wrap around and hold the perpendicular hemp cords into the recessed grooves. A sewn book block. Now the hemp cord ends will be frayed, before the spine is rounded.
The spine is rounded, using a hammer first, and then a bone folder to fine tune. The spine is reinforced with Japanese Paper, Mull (binding gauze), head bands and backing paper. Then the covers are attached. Here you see the inside hinge of a Tight Back Book. All the reinforcing on the spine is attached to the inside cover, before the fly sheet is then pasted down, making for a crisp finish.


3. How we make FLAT BACK BINDINGS
These hardback bindings have flat spines and are made up of folded sections, or folios.
This binding style is perfect for books up to about 80 sheets/160 pages front and back (depending on the paper's weight).

BLANK BOOKS: This binding style is perfect for books up to about .75 inches thick. The pages lay flat for comfortable use.
PRINTED BOOKS: the HEIGHT of the book cannot be taller than 8.5 inches. It can be of any width, though.
In order to print, the content first needs to be formatted into booklets, or folded sections. If you are not familiar with desktop publishing we provide this formatting service.


Sewn Book Block
Glueing the spine
The book block is made up of folded sections that are sewn onto linen tapes that cross the spine at regular intervals. Glue is painted into the grooves, uniting the sections even more.
Adding Japanese paper
Adding the binding gauze and the head bands
The spine is reinforced with Japanese Paper... Mull (binding gauze) and head bands. The book is now ready to be attached to the covers.
The inside hinges of the book block are pasted to the inside of the covers, and the book is placed in the press to dry. The metal edged boards create the french groove along either side of the book's spine.


4. How we make REINFORCED PERFECT BINDINGS
These hardback bindings have flat spines and are made up of a stack of loose sheets. They look exactly like the Flat Back Bindings, except the process (not seen) is simplified, and thus more inexpensive to produce.
This economic binding style is ideal for books up to about a half inch thick.

BLANK BOOKS: The pages do not lay quite as flat as the Flat Back Bindings. However, it is a sturdy, reliable binding that will last more than a lifetime and the pages are very easy to use.
PRINTED BOOKS: One of the 2 measurements cannot be wider than 8.5 inches (either the height or the width). The accompanying measurement can be of any length. Since the book block is made up of a stack of loose sheets, there is no need to format into folded sections. You can send us the content as a Word Document, or a PDF, ready to print.


The book block is made up of a loose stack of sheets. They are fanned down, glued (as seen above), then fanned up and glued again. Grooves are then sawed perpendicularly across the spine. Binding thread is worked into each groove in an eternal figure eight that works its way up and then back down the spine.
The spine is then reinforced with Japanese Paper... Mull (binding gauze) and headbands. The book is now ready to be attached to the covers.
The inside hinges of the book block are pasted to the inside of the covers, and the book is placed in the press to dry. The metal edged boards create the french groove along either side of the book's spine.

 

5. How we make THOSE REALLY BIG BOOKS
We love the challenge...

Really big books make for really big press boards. We often sew these big guys onto linen tapes, rather than recessed hemp cord. We find it's sturdier.



6. How we make CLAM SHELL BOXES

A clam shell box is constructed of two "shells". A base shell, and a lid shell. The base shell fits inside the lid shell when the clam shell box is closed. Above you can see the pieces for the base shell. All clam shells are custom made, measured to fit the content. The base shell is glued together. It is then covered using cover paper or, sometimes, binding canvas.
The series of cuts made on the corners and in all the angles of the cover paper make for a precise fit. The three raised walls are covered using one piece of paper. Once the base shell is made, measurements are taken and the lid shell is made. It is covered using the same process. Here you have the base shell and the lid shell, facing each other. The floors of the shells will now be covered with paper as well.
Then the outside case boards are cut, and covered with binding canvas and/or cover paper. Once covered, the case boards are flipped over, as seen above. The thinner middle board is the inside of the box's spine. It will be covered by cover paper. The base shell is attached to the left hand side of the outside case boards. It dries under pressure to insure a solid bind.
Then the lid shell is adhered to the case boards, and dries under the same amount of pressure. Here you can see the finished clam shell box, opened. The lid shell is on the left, the base shell on the right (with content). The finished clam shell, closed. The raised walls seen here are actually the inverted walls of the lid shell. The base shell cannot be seen when the box is closed. The content is encased on all four sides, protected from light and dust.




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